Installing a Tile Countertop and Backsplash, Step by Step

Selecting your tile

There’s no shortage of choices when it comes to selecting tile. For this project, we opted for the natural beauty of stone tile, along with predesigned accent pieces and a marble edge for a custom look. While our project features stone, we tried to keep the steps as universal as possible.

Setting kitchen tile is a project that’s definitely within reach if you have intermediate DIY skills.

Our project took three days, but you might want to reserve more time depending on your skill level and countertop size.

• Plan on eating sandwiches or take-out during the process, as your kitchen will be out of commission for several days.
• Resist the temptation to start the demo before all your tile and any new sinks and faucets are on site—you definitely don’t want to be without a kitchen while waiting for special orders to arrive.
• Stone tile like the ones we used are available through specialty tile shops and home centers. Specialty tile stores will have more customer service and design assistance, while home centers have all the plywood, cement board, thin-set mortar, grout and tools you need, so you can make it a one-stop trip.
• This project features a special “tile rim” cast iron sink. It rests on top of the cement board and plywood, leaving an edge so your tile sits perfectly flush with the top edge of the sink. If you have a drop-in or undermount sink, adjust the sink installation accordingly.

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Determine your cabinet dimensions

Preparation is key to tiling projects. “If you take the time to plan ahead you will save yourself a lot of headaches further on down the track,” says Drew Mansur, co-founder of TileCloud. “You need to make sure that the surface is clean, level, and that it doesn’t have any debris.”

Once you have a clean workspace, it’s time to measure your cabinet boxes.

• • Measure your cabinets from the wall to the front edge of the face frame, then measure left and right.
    • If you have frameless cabinets, measure to the front just behind the doors or drawer fronts.
  • Attach wall cleats to the wall anywhere there aren’t already cabinet supports. (Typically lazy Susans or dishwasher openings.)
    • For most support gaps, use 2×2 wall cleats, being sure to attach them to studs,
    • If you have a dishwasher opening, use 1×3 cleats to ensure plenty of room for the dishwasher’s backside.
    • Choose screws that will penetrate the drywall and go into the studs about 1 in. Longer screws could hit water pipes or electrical wires behind the wall. (This works out to 3 ½- inch for the 2×2 cleats and 2 ½-inch for 1×3 cleats.)
    • Be careful to place the top edge of the cleat flush with the cabinet tops. Err on the side of being too low – it’s much easier to shim later than needing to shave down.

• Subtract 1/8 inch from the measurement to allow for slight deviations in the wall, and then measure the length.

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Install plywood base

With solid measurements in hand, it’s time to build the plywood body of your new countertop.

• Transfer the measurements to the plywood.
  • Countertops typically have about 1 1/2-inch overhang, minus the thickness of your front edge tile and backer board.
• Cut it with a circular saw and a straightedge for a clean, even cut.
  • Place the smoothest edge on the outside of the cabinet.
• Dry-fit the plywood to double-check your measurements.
  • Be sure you have a nice, even front edge; a small gap against the wall is all right.
  • Tile setter Mikey Presnell says having square countertops is absolutely necessary. “Tile products are almost perfectly square,” he says. “Any gaps or unevenness will be apparent in the finished product.
• Screw the plywood to the cabinet and cleats every 8 inches, using 1-5/8 in. screws.

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Install a second layer of plywood

Since we’re putting a line of edge tile on the front lip of the countertop, we’ll need to add a layer of 1/4-in. plywood to keep the edge from interfering with the drawer fronts. Whether you need to do this will depend on the width of the edge tile you select. If not, jump ahead to the next step.

• Lay out the additional plywood so that the seams won’t overlap. This will provide extra strength.
• Lay several beads of construction adhesive between the plywood sheets.
• Fasten the top layer of plywood into place with 1-in. staples or 1-in. wood screws.
• Place a fastener every 6 inches.

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Trace the sink and cut out the opening

Take your time when cutting the sink opening, and be conservative with your cut. It’s much easier to nibble off a little more plywood than face having to relay the entire countertop base.

• Place the sink upside down on the plywood countertop.
• Center the sink in the sink base cabinet and trace the perimeter.
  • Draw another outline a 1/2 inch inside this mark. Add a rounded radius at the corners, to give additional support.
• Cut out the opening with a jigsaw.
  • Start the cut by either drilling a hole into the plywood.
  • To prevent the cutout from dropping into the cabinet, screw a length of the cleat material to the cutout, positioned to overlap the edge of the cut.

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Mark your backer board for cutting

Home centers and tile shops carry several choices for tile underlayment. “For kitchen countertops, I like to use a cement board as a backing material,” says Drew Mansur. “It’s a pretty good option because of its durability and water resistance, and it’s an overall solid base for stone tiles.”

For this project, we used an old-fashioned cement board. It may be slightly more difficult to work with than other materials, but it cuts fairly easily and will last for decades.

• Set the cement board onto the plywood.
• Trace the shapes with a fine-tip marker or carpenter’s pencil.
  • This is much easier than measuring and transferring the measurements to the backer board.

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Cut the backer board

Cut the backer board to size.

• This can be done with a circular saw or a jigsaw outfitted with an abrasive-cutting blade.
• Depending on the type and brand of backer board, this can produce a lot of dust.
  • Take this job outside or use a shop vacuum or other dust control method.

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Set the backer board

The secret to a solid tile countertop foundation is to securely bind the backer board to the plywood below.

• Mix a batch of thin-set mortar to a soft, mashed potato consistency.
• Trowel the mortar onto the plywood with a notched trowel. (Check the profile on the bag of mortar for the recommended trowel size.)
• Set the backer board right into the mortar, pressing down gently to make sure you have good adhesion.
• Screw the board every 8 inches to the plywood below with 1-1/4 in. backer board screws.

Install backer along the counter edges

Now, it’s time to add a proper backing surface to the edge of the plywood base.

• Cut narrow strips of cement board by scoring both sides and gently pry up the edge.
• Mix another small batch of thin-set mortar. Spread it over the plywood edge.
• Push the backer board strip onto the edge face.
• Secure the edge every 6 inches with 1 1/4-in. galvanized nails.
• Apply fiberglass mesh tape over the corners.
  • The mesh might be peel-and-stick or may need a bit of thin-set to bed in.
• With the mesh in place, trowel a thin layer of thin-set mortar over it.
• Let the mortar set up for a few hours before continuing.

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Layout the tile

It’s time to start laying out the tile. This is another step where it’s critical to take your time.

Jenya Teplitskaya, a Senior Branch Manager at AAA Distributor, says this step is a major hurdle for first-timers. “Beginners sometimes start tiling without a clear plan or layout,” she says, “leading to awkward cuts or uneven tile distribution, especially in corners or edges.” Similarly, she says, “Misjudging the space and not accounting for grout lines can result in misaligned tiles and gaps that are hard to fix once the adhesive sets.”

• Snap chalk lines for your layout, then precut some of the field tiles to fit.
  • Place them across the counter, and see where you’ll need to make cuts.
  • If you have an inside corner, start your pattern there. This will give symmetrical lines in both directions.
  • Adjust the body of the pattern so that you’ll have fewer tiny pieces, which could be prone to future failure.

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Cut tiles to size

With a solid layout, you can begin to cut tile.

• Cut the tiles to fit with a wet-cut tile saw. Push the tiles gently through the diamond blade; don’t force them.
• It’s best to draw lines right on the top using a framing square as a guide.
• Mix some thin-set mortar in a plastic pail to a smooth, mashed potato consistency.
  • Mix enough about a quart at a time – that’s enough to cover 6 to 8 square feet at a time.
• Spread the mortar with a notched trowel.
• Place the tiles on the mortar bed and lightly press them into place.
  • Use tile spacers as needed to maintain even grout lines.
• Once you’ve finished with one section, examine the tile closely, check the spacing and look for crooked tiles or extra-wide or narrow grout lines.
• If everything looks good, mix another quart of mortar and tackle the next 6- to 8-sq.-ft. section.
• Repeat until you’ve laid all the main body tiles.

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Lay the accent border

If you’re using a decorative border, now’s the time to cut it to size.

“If you want a smooth look for the front edge of a countertop,” suggests Mansur, “use bullnose tiles. Try to make sure that you keep the tiles on the edge in alignment with the surface tiles, otherwise it will look pretty poor when everything is dry.”

• Dry fit your pieces for the accent border.
• Spread your mortar.
• Fit the tiles around along the accent section, setting them flat in the thin-set.
• Once you finish setting all the tiles and the mortar has had a few hours to set, return with a utility knife or wood chisel and lightly scrape away any mortar that oozed from behind the tile. (It’s much easier to deal with this mortar now than when it’s fully dried.)

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Clamp a ledger to support the front edge

The bullnose tiles we placed on our front edge were quite heavy, and wouldn’t have stayed in place on their own. Solve this problem by providing a little extra support.

• Clamp a straightedge to the front of the cabinet’s face frame, positioned to support the front edge tiles you’re about to install. This will keep them in place until the mortar sets.
• If you have a side section to your counter, use another straightedge, screwed or clamped to the overhang of the front straightedge, with an upright support on the backend near the wall.
• Layout the edge pieces, adjusting them so that there is no “tiny tile” at any corner.
• Butter the backside of the cut tile with mortar and set them on the front edge, using the straightedge for support.
• Use small shims as needed to lift some pieces slightly off your temporary ledger for a nice, straight edge.
• Are you having trouble getting the edge pieces to stay put? “You can use a hot glue gun,” says Mikey Presnell, “a couple of dabs on the back corners of tile to hold it in place until it sets up. Fast-setting epoxy will do the trick as well.”

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Start the backsplash

We’ve included steps for a simple backsplash. If you’re doing a larger backsplash or working with intricate mosaic tile, check out one of our other dedicated walk-throughs.

• Trowel enough mortar onto the wall for the first two rows in a 6 to 8-foot section.
• Lay the first row of the tile. (Use spacers to leave a 1/8-in. gap between the countertop and the first row.)
• Start setting the second row. Add spacers to keep the tile in place.
• Check your work as you progress, looking for sagging or oozing mortar.
• Give the first two rows time to set up before continuing.
• How long depends on the thin-set mixture and weight of the tiles. If in doubt, give it a little longer. There’s nothing worse than seeing a day’s worth of work sliding down the wall!

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Mark backsplash tiles for outlets

If you’re installing a backsplash, a common issue is cutting around outlets.

• Hold the backsplash tile in position and mark it for height to fit around the receptacle.
• Mark the outlet width on the tile.
• Mikey Presnell says to select your marking tool with care. “Use a paint pin on glass and pencil on other products. Do not use a permanent marker,” he says, as it is difficult or impossible to wipe the mark away.
• You’ll need to install an outlet extender to bring the outlet flush to the new surface. This is typically required by code and, as Drew Mansur points out, gives a cleaner finished look.

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Seal porous tile or stone before grouting

If you don’t seal porous tile and stone, it will absorb grout and look hazy no matter how often you scrub it. (You can skip this step if you have fully glazed tile with a matte or gloss finish.)

• Coat the face of the porous tile and stone with a sealer before grouting to prevent the grout from sticking to the tile surface and being absorbed.
• Once the mortar has set overnight, pick up sealer at the tile shop (ask for the right stuff for your tile).
• Roll or brush the sealer on and let it dry for about an hour before grouting.

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Grout the tile

Grout protects the tile and provides a clean, finished look.

• Use a premixed grout, or mix enough for a 6-ft. square section at a time.
• Mix the grout to a toothpaste consistency.
• Push it into the joints with a grout float.
  • Work it in from several directions and squeegee the excess off with the edge of the grout float.
• Wipe each section down as you go using a clean, damp sponge.
  • Rinse the sponge in clean water and rotate it to a fresh, clean side. Change the water in your pail often!
  • Don’t use a sponge that’s too wet — adding water to the grout will weaken it.
  • Several passes are typically needed to clean the grout from the tile.
• Polish with a clean, lint-free towel.
• Scrape out any excess grout from the gap between the countertop and the backsplash.
  • Seal this section (and other corners as needed) with a sanded caulk that matches the grout color.
• Apply sealer per the manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Teplitskaya emphasizes the importance of this step: “Failing to seal the grout, especially in wet areas, can lead to staining, discoloration, and water damage over time.”

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About the Experts

• Drew Mansur is the co-founder and head of growth at TileCloud – Australia’s leading online tile store. He graduated with a degree in construction management which led him into the construction industry. From there, he co-founded a commercial tiling business, which ultimately led to the start of TileCloud.
• Mikey Presnell is a Certified Tile Expert at Earth Saving Solutions, a full-service, fully licensed, and insured general contractor for both residential homes and commercial buildings in the Colorado Front Range region. Mikey has helped guide ESS tile projects to successful completion for over ten years.
• Jenya Teplitskaya is Senior Branch Manager of AAA Distributor’s Dallas showroom. AAA Distributor is the among the largest distributors of kitchen, bathroom, and flooring products.