Change the oil in your vehicle every 3,000 miles. Generations of drivers took this statement as gospel, and for good reason. Aside from the obvious need to maintain oil at the optimal operating level, what makes frequent oil changes so important? Do today’s vehicles still benefit from that 3,000-mile refresh? What happens when you run old oil in your car?
What Causes Oil Deterioration
At the heart of an internal combustion engine lies a nasty environment. Each time a piston cycles, heat builds from combustion and friction. Impurities from fuel and air enter the cylinder and mix with carbon (a product of incomplete combustion) and water (a product of proper combustion). The rings, designed to prevent the sudden expansion of gas from rushing past the piston, rake across the cylinder wall.
Any of these substances can get into the oil through a process called blow-by, where the piston rings fail to keep the crank case (containing the oil) sealed away from the contents of the cylinder. Blow-by is caused primarily by starting a cold engine or wear on an aging engine.
As a basic property of matter, engine parts expand as they heat up. The piston and rings in a cold engine remain somewhat loose. If this wasn’t the case, your engine would seize as these parts expand and become wedged in the cylinder. As the engine runs, the heat produced expands them to their ideal tolerances. This happens at about 195 degrees F. Before this point, the undersized parts allow some degree of blow-by, which begins to taint the oil.
Overdue Oil Change Damage
Dirty oil creates additional friction that wears away the cylinder wall. Over time, the increase in diameter of the cylinder and the existence of any irregularities in the cylinder wall also promote blow-by. As wearing accumulates, more blow-by occurs, which accelerates the wear and allows more blow-by. A nasty cycle, indeed. Dirty oil also contributes to wear on bearing surfaces, which reduces oil pressure.
Molecular Mischief
On a molecular level, oil is a chain-shaped compound composed of carbon and hydrogen. These hydrocarbon molecules pumped from the ground contain chains of various lengths. The shorter chains are more likely to succumb to the heat in your engine and burn up. This process contaminates the oil as well, making it thicker and less efficient at protecting your engine from wear. An oil extractor pump makes doing your own oil changes a breeze.
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Signs Your Car Needs an Oil Change
Check your oil every few weeks. A low reading on the dipstick should be topped off, but if your translucent, golden-hued lubricant looks sooty and opaque, change it. You may also see a decrease in fuel economy as your old oil thickens, losing viscosity and some of its ability to lubricate.
As the efficiency of your oil fades the engine can generate more heat, so it runs a bit hotter with the potential to overheat. Lastly, your car may start making ticking sounds or other noises from metal hitting metal with little to no oil film between them. Any of these signs signal the need for an oil change. Here are tips on how to choose the right oil and filter for your car.
More Than 3,000 Miles Without an Oil Change?
Some car manufacturers currently recommend longer intervals between oil changes. Several reasons exist to explain this.
It starts with the government ban on lead as an anti-knock compound. Lead was a primary cause of oil contamination. Newer manufacturing technology allows design with more exacting specifications, resulting in cleaner-burning engines and less blow-by.
Finally, synthetic oil optimizes the size of the hydrocarbon chains. This standardization prevents premature oil burn-up, withstands engine pressure better and creates a thinner, more efficient coating on engine surfaces. All these add up to longer-wearing oil.
See how to change car oil on your own in the video below:
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Learn the 13 Signs Your Car is About to Die
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Jerky Starting and Stopping
“Transmission issues are expensive. So, if you notice violent acceleration or braking while driving your car (and especially if all that jerking and shuddering is accompanied by some unpleasant grinding noises), it’s likely time to move on to a new vehicle.”
—Matt Smith, senior editor at CarGurus.com. Plus:
Check out 100 car maintenance tasks you can do on your own—no need to call the shop!
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Your Car Has Rust
“Rust is a very expensive problem to fix and it continues to get worse if you don’t catch it when it starts. The chemicals they put on the roads during the winter really eat away at the paint and metal. Once rust starts, it spreads quickly. Water leaks also tend to do widespread damage in that water sits in hidden spots and causes corrosion. Both problems need to be looked at thoroughly to gauge how much damage has happened.”
—Tom O’Neill, owner of O’Neill’s Auto Body Shop in New Holland, Pennsylvania. Learn these
34 secrets that dealers know but you don’t.
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You’re Holding On For Love
“Lots of people, professing to love the inanimate object that is their car, continue to make payments or repairs they can’t afford. Sometimes you just have to cut the cord and sell it.”
—Lauren Fix, The Car Coach. These five
inexpensive car additives could save you a ton of money.
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It’s Leaking Fluids
“Much like the human body, your car requires precious fluids to stay alive. If you are having to refill any of your car’s vital fluids—coolant, oil, brake, and power steering fluid, etc.—every month, then it is only a question of when, not if, something will go out.”
—David Ambrogio, a consultant at Superior Honda in New Orleans, Louisiana. Here are
74 car maintenance tips to extend the life of your car.
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There’s a Change in your Financial Picture
“If you purchased a truck when gas prices were low, but now they are straining your finances, you have to consider if this is a long-term option for you. Another example may be a sports car that has great payments, but the insurance is putting it out of your reach.”
—Valerie Coleman, a longtime car expert at AutoTrader.com and now the mobile marketplace 5miles
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The Cost of the Repair Could Get you a Newer Ride
“I would advise that before spending the big bucks on a big repair, ask yourself, ‘What can I sell the
car for while it’s running, and can I combine the sales proceeds with the money I would otherwise have spent on repairs to buy something newer and more reliable?’ I owned a high-end European car with over 200,000 miles on it. It ran great, but needed parts replaced. The estimate for all the named work was close to $4,000. The car had a book value of around $2,500. As the cliché goes, I was about to throw good money after bad. Sure, I might have gotten another 50,000 miles out of it, or it could have died 5,000 miles later. Another option would be to take the $4,000 I was about the spend, give my car away for $2,000, and buy a nicer, newer, used car for $6,000—which is what I did.”
—Richard Reina, automotive expert and product training director for CARiD.com
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Repeated Recalls
“No mechanical item is without issue, which includes your vehicle. Always make sure you keep up with your recalls, but if it becomes a pattern or happens to be a major recall, it may be time to investigate getting a new car.”
—Valerie Coleman, a longtime car expert at AutoTrader.com and now the mobile marketplace 5miles. Buying a car online?
Here’s what you need to know.
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Lots of Little Blinking Lights
“The earliest sign of a car on its way out will often be found on the dashboard. All of those little warning lights are important, and ignoring them could spell more trouble down the road. If your check engine light is illuminated, you should take the car to your mechanic as soon as possible. If the oil light is on, you’ll want to pull over and call for help. And if either light persists, it may be time to find a new car.”
— Matt Smith, senior editor at CarGurus.com. Learn how to change your oil yourself
here.
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Your Mileage and Warranty Don’t Line Up
“If you are like many people, a warranty is required for peace of mind. While there are companies that offer extended warranties, make sure you read the fine print. And watch your odometer. If you are near your warranty expiration and you are not in a position to buy an
extended warranty, it may be a good time to look around.”
—Valerie Coleman, a longtime car expert at AutoTrader.com and now the mobile marketplace 5miles
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You’ve Hit the Century Mark
“When you hit that 100,000-mile marker, take stock of what you have, especially if you bought the car used. Sometimes a car will run for 175,000 miles, so it’s worth the investment. But if you buy a used car with a body that’s starting to rust out, you can bet the complex components were neglected too.”
—Lauren Fix, The Car Coach. Beware, your
car won’t survive winter without these fixes.
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It’s Blowing Smoke
“Blue
smoke pouring from the tailpipe means your car is burning oil, and white smoke means it’s evaporating coolant. You can certainly keep adding either fluid to your engine to keep the wheels turning, but failing to do either will result in that smoke starting to billow under the hood—and then it’s time for either an expensive fix or a new car.”
—Matt Smith, senior editor at CarGurus.com
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It’s Knocking On Heaven’s Door
“Keeping your car regularly lubricated with vital fluids goes a long way in maintaining your engine. Skipping regular maintenance can eventually cause your car’s camshaft to be no longer in sync with the pistons, leading to a ‘knocking’ sound that is a tell-tale sign that something is seriously wrong. This is an expensive fix, and it is usually time at this point to start saving up for a new engine.”
—David Ambrogio, a consultant at Superior Honda in New Orleans, Louisiana.
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The Transmission is Slipping
“A slow response from your car’s transmission is another sign that your vehicle is about to die. Once the transmission starts losing gears, it’s ok to drive the car for a few more miles, but you will just be delaying the inevitable. At this point, the solution is to replace the transmission or get a new car.”
—David Ambrogio, a consultant at Superior Honda in New Orleans, Louisiana. These
clever automotive hacks will come in handy during DIY car maintenance projects.