We look at whether one type is better than another and identify your options.
Our editors and experts handpick every product we feature. We may earn a commission from your purchases.Learn more.
We look at whether one type is better than another and identify your options.
Our editors and experts handpick every product we feature. We may earn a commission from your purchases.Learn more.
There are few objects more prevalent, or less appreciated, than the humble plunger. Most American homes have one tucked away, although in many ways they’re like a first aid kit. We leave them out of sight and hope they’ll never be needed.
But is one plunger enough? Many experts suggest you have at least two — one for toilets and one for any other clogged drain, like a bathtub or sink. Why? Hygiene. You don’t want to use the same plunger to clear a toilet and your kitchen sink.
Turns out there are also differences in design, and even technique, that can make certain plungers more effective on a toilet or a sink. I asked Ron Spruce, a licensed plumber with more than 33 years experience, to explain the finer points of plunger use.
On This Page
A standard plunger has two basic parts: a flexible rubber cup and a handle. This design has been around since 1874, when it was patented by John Hawley.
While Hawley called his device a “vent clearer,” his original instructions still apply 150 years later. I updated some of the terminology to give us modern instructions for clearing a clogged sink drain:
A small quantity of water is allowed to flow into the sink, covering the drain. The plunger cup is then placed around the drain, and the handle is pressed down suddenly (aka plunged), forcing the water beneath the cup into the drain where it dislodges the clog, allowing it to be carried off by the out flowing water.
Simple and efficient.
The best choice doesn’t look too different from Hawley’s original design. Spruce recommends “a basic plunger with an old-school short wooden handle and a rubber head.” These readily available models typically cost less than $10.
The shorter handle (eight or inches inches) makes it easier to store it beneath your sink, and won’t get in your way as you plunge. If you want something more attractively designed, variations are available in the $15 to $20 range.
There are three common types. The standard cup is simply a larger version of a sink plunger, while flange toilet plungers come with an extendable flap that fits into toilet drains. The third kind is an accordion plunger.
For veteran plumber Spruce, the flange toilet plunger is clearly the standout choice for toilets. “It has a baffled spout at the end that counter-sinks into the bowl,” he says, “so that when you push it’s directed straight through the integrated trap of the toilet.”
Spruce suggests choosing a well-built flange plunger with a long handle. A typical flange toiler plunger costs $20 to $25.
Because different toilets have different drain shapes, Spruce also recommends selecting a plunger with softer rubber for the cup. The flexible material contorts around the opening of the toilet drain, creating a more efficient seal.
These plungers feature the longer handle needed to work in a toilet, without the flange that extends into the toilet drain. They can work, and cost around $12, half the price of a flange plunger. But they won’t seal as well and may pull more waste material into the toilet.
“You can use a regular rounded-head plunger in toilets, but they’re not designed to create a seal in the same way,” Spruce says. “It will work, but it’ll be harder to use.”
Overall, you’re probably better off spending a little more for a flange plunger.
It only takes one look at the design of these plungers to understand where the name comes from.
They’re typically a little shorter than standard plungers, which places the user closer to the toilet. But the accordion design (sometimes called bellows) packs each plunge with greater water pressure, requiring less effort from the user. They cost about the same as a flange toilet plunger.
Given all that information, I asked Spruce if the only difference between sink and toilet plungers was their design. He quickly set me straight, explaining there’s a fundamental difference in technique when working on different drains.
“With a sink plunger, you want the clog to push and pull back and forth to shake loose,” he says. He suggests using strong force on the initial plunge, followed by a backward pull that’s as strong as possible without breaking the seal around the drain.
Surprisingly, a toilet plunger benefits from a more delicate touch. “When you pull on the toilet plunger,” Spruce says, “pull lightly, then focus on the push down to force the water through.”
Spruce says a strong pull can have two unpleasant results. First, it can jam clogged material even tighter inside the integrated trap. Second, it can cause solid or liquid waste spray back out of the toilet. There will always be a little bit of backflow, he says, but a gentle pull will keep it to a minimum.