Create a shadow box to display your prized memorabilia, art, trinkets and awards safely and securely. Just follow these DIY steps.
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Create a shadow box to display your prized memorabilia, art, trinkets and awards safely and securely. Just follow these DIY steps.
Our editors and experts handpick every product we feature. We may earn a commission from your purchases.Learn more.
Two days
Beginner
$40-$60
This simple shadow box project offers the perfect place for DIYers to store their most cherished memorabilia.
Shadow boxes are used to display two- and three-dimensional memorabilia, art, trinkets, keepsakes, awards and souvenirs. You can hang shadow boxes on a wall like you hang a picture, or place them on a shelf. Depending on what you’re displaying, you can customize the size, the type of wood, color, glass and box closure.
It’s easy to create a shadow box. You can start with an old picture frame and attach a wooden box to the back. Inside, affix photos, awards, artwork, etc. to a backboard made of corkboard, wood, fabric or foam. Installing latches, hinges, magnets and other hardware lets you add and remove items easily.
There’s no right or wrong way to DIY your shadow box. Here’s how we built ours, with easy access and quick closure:
On the 1×3 board, measure 1/4-inch down from edge of the board and mark where you’ll make a dado. The dado will hold the pre-cut 8- by 10-in. glass pane in place. Cut the dado with the table saw so it’s 1/8-in. wide (the width of a typical table saw blade) by 1/4-in. deep.
Crosscut the dadoed 1×3 board into four pieces using a miter saw. Cut two pieces nine inches long, and the other two 11 inches long. Sand all four pieces and break the edges with 150-grit sandpaper.
Set up the four pieces in a rectangle, with the 1/8-in. wide dado on the top inner edge. On the corners, mark where you’ll make your miter cut on the ends of each board. Then make 45-degree cuts.
From the same edge used to measure the dado, measure and mark one inch down from the edge. Rip the boards using a table saw. This will separate the front of the box from the body.
Put on your gloves, grab the brush and stain the boards, wiping off access with a rag. Let dry as recommended on the can.
Once the stain dries, lightly sand any raised grain with 220-grit sandpaper. Then apply a wipe-on polyurethane topcoat to all eight pieces. Be careful not to get any topcoat on the mitered ends where the shadow box will be glued together.
Let the topcoat dry. Using a stain and poly in one product, like Minwax PolyShades, will speed this process.
Assemble the body of the box (the four 1-3/8-in. wide pieces) with wood glue and a nail gun. Build the top (one-inch wide pieces) by placing the glass in the dados and securing with wood glue and brad nails.
On the right underside of the box top, drill a centered hole with a forstner bit the same diameter as the magnet for it to sit in. Center the hole on the 3/4-inch wide edge and drill it slightly deeper than the magnet is thick.
Repeat this process on the right side of the body where the magnets will touching when box is closed. Superglue the magnets into the holes and let dry.
Attach two hinges to the left-hand side of the box. Measure two inches from top and bottom of the box so the hinges are evenly placed. Secure hinges with screws to the body and top of the box.
Measure your shadow box. With the table saw, cut a piece of the 1/4-inch birch plywood that’s the exact size or slightly smaller. Stain and topcoat the piece and its edges, let dry, then attach it to the back of the box body with a nail gun.
Clean the glass with a bit of glass cleaner and a rag. Fill the shadow box with souvenirs, add it to a shelf or hang it on a gallery wall.